
I am caught up on the Pendrell blouse- and not having as bad a time as I expected with poly chiffon!
I got some stuff done on a secret project! (shh!) involving three yards of lush brown linen...I wish I liked wearing linen more-this is my first time sewing with it and it is dreamy.
And I did most of a muslin for that Butterick dress...

So far, weird things going on in the bodice. I cut a 14, and added a little to the middle- which I promply took out, because the darts wound up being in the wrong place entirely.
Here is what it looked like: (ignore pink marks)

look at all that extra fabric up at the top! what's up with that?

I know I need to shorten the waist darts and change the angle of the side bust darts. But what to do about all that fabric above the bust? I dont understand whats going on.
I tried pinning it out a few ways...

This seems acceptable. But how do I get this fabric to come out without creating a dart here? or is that my only option?
(my guess, as a newbie at fitting, is that I should have cut a size 12, and done an FBA, but I dont have a size 12 pattern, so, oh well.)

Hey, you did the right thing with that extra fabric above the bust. You pinned it and the creases disapeared, right?
ReplyDeleteNow transfer that new shape in your pattern and that's it.
If you already sew the pieces of your muslin, unpick the shoulder seams and you'll see that your pattern has a weird shape above the bust and in the shoulders.
You'll see as if your shoulders were a bit bend towards the center, but that's normal.
Transfer that shape to your pattern before you cut the fashion fabric; you just need to blend the lines to make your neckline smooth and that's it.
I hope I made myself clear, but if I didn't I can send you some pictures of a blouse pattern I made a few days ago in which I used this same contouring principle.
If you want to take a look, let me know.
Daligula sais what I was going to say. I would transfer the new neckline shape to you pattern. You don't neccesarily need darts there.
ReplyDeleteI'm with you on the figuing out the FBA thing.
Thanks guys. Daligula- if you could show me this picture, that would be great. I'm not sure I understand this thing of marking changes on the muslin, and transfering the new neck shape.
ReplyDeleteHey Bhoomika.
ReplyDeleteI just posted the pictures in my blog; I hope they're helpful.
http://daligula.blogspot.com/2011/02/neckline-contouring-for-bhoomika.html